![]() The hood had tips of varying length toward the end of the century it was often so long that it hung down as far as the calf of the leg, like a thin, stuffed tail. ![]() These were the so-called geknäuften Kogeln (buttoned hoods). It was either closed all round or made to be buttoned in front. Sometimes the Gugel fitted closely round the head sometimes it was looser, and sometimes it reached down to the shoulders or encircled the body collar-wise, coming down almost to the elbows. Some were made with one seam in the front some with two seams, back and front. ![]() These hoods varied greatly both in size and shape. At other times it was allowed to hang down the back. The most usual form of headdress was the hood, variously called Gugel, Kogel, or Kugel, but it was worn only in rough weather. German Noble man in the fourteenth century. ![]() They were made of very thick but pliant leather, and were sometimes sleeveless. In the second half of the century the tunic had become still shorter and closer-fitting, until finally it was very tight and hardly covered the trunk the belt encircled the body below the hips. These were attached to the belt by special thongs. This belt also served to hold the knight’s sword on the right side and on the left side his dagger. The tunic was held in place by a richly ornamented waist-belt, which was buckled loosely. The material of these tunics, which reached to the knees, was in most cases cloth, but they were frequently made of velvet or silk or other material, lined with fur, and embroidered with the coat of arms of the wearer. The German knights, like the French, began to have their tunics made shorter and closer-fitting, as well as open in front, and sometimes also at the sides almost up to the hips. You can use linen fabric scraps: cut it in a straight piece, fold in the raw edges and sew in place with whip stitches or slip stitches.During the fourteenth century the war dress of the knightly orders in Germany underwent the same transformation as in France. I always use a piece of fabric on the inside (if I don’t have a whole lining in place) to strengthen the edge and make the lacing look better. On the inside of the lacing, you can see a thin strip of tabby woven, sturdy linen fabric. Practise makes perfect don’t bother if your first holes are a bit uneven, if you start from the bottom and work your way up they will look really nice by the time you reach the area others actually look at.Ī tip for making the hole more even is to first sew one round of stitching around the hole, and then another turn, dense enough to cover any gaps. Yeah…Īfter the hole is made the right size, I sew around it with a buttonhole silk thread or a waxed linen thread (depending on social status, period, colour etc) I never bother with any fancy stitch, just sew around like this, and cover the hole equally with thread. I do have real awls, but since they seem to always be “somewhere else” a bunch of different objects has been used needle binding needles, hairpins, chopsticks… You don’t need anything fancy, was my conclusion. To make lacing holes I use a sharp awl to make a small hole, and then a fitting thicker awl in metal, wood or bone to make the hole bigger.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |